Since it's 240V we're not far enough to need a wire size bump, so we're all set there too. #8 copper or #6 aluminum is the minimum size allowed for 50A if the wire is allowed to run a 75C (so not UF-B or NM-B). Thinking about that larger future RV at 50 amps. Given the distances we need 1 wire size bump, and that puts us at #6 aluminum, so that's just right. Normally you use #10 copper (or #8 aluminum) for a 30A circuit. Generally I don't even bother checking the voltage drop calculators unless a run is over 160' (or 80' if it's 120V). 33% more for the wire but that's a small part of total project cost.
#Add a 30 amp rv station install#
Or you could install a trailer power stand which provides all of them: 14-50, TT30 and 120V GFCI at the same time.Īll you need to do to enable that is carry a 4th wire. Well change the breaker also, but that's $10. In the happy future you get a big RV, you just change the recep to a NEMA 14-50. Back at the panel you use a 20A breaker for that circuit and a 30A breaker for the TT30 trailer, and handle-tie the two breakers. Now you can just plug in anything you want and you don't need the trailer there as a 3000 pound "adapter". So I recommend you throw one more #6 Al wire into the trench.įor now, you share the neutral with the other circuit, and bring it out to a common 120V GFCI outlet right next to the TT30 trailer circuit.
#3 fitting a subpanel out here if needs increase. #2 a future RV that will take a 50A/240V receptacle. Having a picnic area with power for grill etc. I'm thinking hard on two scenarios: #1 wanting to run other loads besides the camper, out there today. We still think ahead and are smart about being cheap now to save money later. Cheap doesn't mean stupid (much the opposite)Ĭheapness is a grand thing. That dangerous AA-1350 metal will be a nightmare to get the terminations correct so you don't get a repeat of the 80s house fires. you're running a branch circuit (panel to socket). Note that you're not running a service (pole to meter). That's because URD cable is made to be on the power company's side of the electric meter - and power companies play by different rules (because their wires are all outdoors and not buried in walls of buildings). (this alloy is banned anywhere else, see NEC 310.106(B)). URD cable is made with the bad AA-1350 alloy wire, infamous for the aluminum-wiring scandal of the 80s and 90s.
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